Golden Spot #3

New York, is London Calling

The New York Fashion Week ended on the last Thursday (September 15) with a futuristic Cabaret feeling from Marc Jacobs collection. I have to say it wasn’t one of my favorites, and I was a little disappointed specially after seeing the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. The M by MJ collection is more youth directed (the star of the new campaign is the 13 year old actress Elle Fanning) and we can see it on his creations for the next spring – cool, casual and sporty clothes in bright colors (this sporty mood was also present in collections like Vera Wang, Altuzarra, 3.1 Philip Lim and, obviously, Alexander Wang.

Despite the disappointment of the Marc Jacob’s show, I fell in love with other well-known designers and also with designers that I didn’t know (after all, I’m only 17 and I’m still learning about the fashion world). The Michael Kors’ inspiration was all about Africa, presenting a collection with leather, tye die prints, safari jackets and warm colors. Diane von Furstenberg is one of my favorites and I just can’t get enough of her colorful prints and feminine pieces. Having as a muse the New York woman, Karan presented a DKNY collection of loose and flowy dresses that makes us anxious for the summer.

The Chilean Maria Cornejo, who designs for Zero + Maria Cornejo, is one of those designers that I “met” during the NYFW. I loved the simple and sophisticated looks and how the color gradually upgraded through the show, starting and ending with a total white look – to me, one of the best collections.

However, since September 16, London has been the spotlight. Paul Costelloe was the first to present his spring collection on London Fashion Week but was the Sass & Bide presentation that really stood out to me. The brand designed by the Australians Sarah-Jane Clarke (Sass) and Heidi Middleton (Bide) offered a vibrant collection with contrasting textures (one of the trends for this fall) and colors and tribal inspired pieces.

Matthew Williamson’s show took place in the halls of the Tate Modern in the third day of LFW and the artist Mat Collishaw (whose work is part of the Tate’s permanent collection) was the inspiration to the british designer. The result: a bohemian collection with great patterns (as always), tailored pants, sexy dresses, silk blouses, all n burnt-orange, yellow and army-green tones (with a few cobalt blue and turquoise looks at the end of the show). Also in this day, Holly Fulton’s sea inspired clothes, with kitsch feeling and surreal underwater scenes prints, were so brilliant that were compared to the Gianni Versace’s ones (another inspiration for the designer).

In the last two days of the womenswear shows, Christopher Kane, Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou and Burberry Prorsum presented the greatest collections. Christopher Kane’s high school uniform look alike pieces, van der Ham’s cleaned-up and skillfully pulled together clothes, as well as the bold flower prints in the entire collection of the greek Katrankatzou showed how good and talented are the alumni of Central Saint Martins’ elite MA degree.

About the Burberry Prorsum presentation, I saw it live from the Burberry Official Facebook page and I only have one word to describe it: PERFECTION (here is the video so you can see for yourselves).

Tomorrow, although is the last day of London Fashion Week, it is also the first day in Milano, starting with names like Gucci and Alberta Ferretti.